What better way to start the day than with a coffee. I experienced my first authentic Turkish kahve (coffee) at Hafiz Ahmet (Hüdavendigar Avenue). It was perfect. It's a much different experience than drinking espresso; there is a satisfying froth on top, and the coffee itself is rich and sweet. But don't swish your cup - you want to keep those coffee grounds at the bottom!
After coffee, we ascended the cobbled hill to the Arkeoloji Muzesi (Archaeology Museum). Admission: $10 TL.
The gated complex houses three different museums, but the grounds surrounded the buildings are just as interesting.
The outdoors courtyards are literally filled with centuries-old statues and ruins that can't be accommodated in the museums.
I could spend hours admiring (or sketching!) these fantastic sculptures. Magnificent.
The first building we encounted was the Çinili Köşk (Tiled Kiosk).
It was covered in beautiful, elaborate, geometric tile work, dating to the Ottoman period.
You can't help but think of Marmara Sea when you gaze into the deep blue tiles.
Next, we went into the Archaeology Museum (proper) and the Museum of the Ancient Orient.
These two buildings house almost one million relics in about 20 galleries, including this replica of the Trojan horse.
We even stumbled upon a vast array of new pottery shards and artifacts that were laid out to dry under a massive skylight. There must have been hundreds of these drying racks.
Another gallery housed hundreds of amazing Classical marble statues and busts. This was definitely my favourite part of the museum. The skill of marble sculptors to capture the human form never ceases to amaze me.
After a busy morning, we found lunch at Caferaga Medresesi (1 Sogukkuyu Çikmazi), a beautiful restaurant tucked in a ancient courtyard (built in 1559!), surrounded by artisan workshops and studios. Don't miss this!
Next was the highly anticipated tour of one of Istanbul's most popular attractions: Hagia Sophia. Admission: $20 TL.
The outdoors courtyards are literally filled with centuries-old statues and ruins that can't be accommodated in the museums.
I could spend hours admiring (or sketching!) these fantastic sculptures. Magnificent.
The first building we encounted was the Çinili Köşk (Tiled Kiosk).
It was covered in beautiful, elaborate, geometric tile work, dating to the Ottoman period.
You can't help but think of Marmara Sea when you gaze into the deep blue tiles.
Next, we went into the Archaeology Museum (proper) and the Museum of the Ancient Orient.
These two buildings house almost one million relics in about 20 galleries, including this replica of the Trojan horse.
We even stumbled upon a vast array of new pottery shards and artifacts that were laid out to dry under a massive skylight. There must have been hundreds of these drying racks.
Another gallery housed hundreds of amazing Classical marble statues and busts. This was definitely my favourite part of the museum. The skill of marble sculptors to capture the human form never ceases to amaze me.
After a busy morning, we found lunch at Caferaga Medresesi (1 Sogukkuyu Çikmazi), a beautiful restaurant tucked in a ancient courtyard (built in 1559!), surrounded by artisan workshops and studios. Don't miss this!
Next was the highly anticipated tour of one of Istanbul's most popular attractions: Hagia Sophia. Admission: $20 TL.
Among the other unbelievable features of this Byzantine structure (which dates to the middle sixth century) is the huge central dome.
The dome is supported by pendentives (columns), which distribute the weight of the massive dome. This technique had never been used before the building of this structure. The overall effect - of gilded mosaics, the flood of natural light, and the sheer size (over 30 metres) - is overwhelming, feeling as though the heavenly dome is suspended in the air. It is no wonder Hagia Sophia is considered one of the most advanced and ambitious monuments of late antiquity.
It truly felt like I was living in an virtual reality art history book. This was probably the highlight of the entire trip. So impressive.
We headed south, through beautiful Sultanahmet Park, towards Sultanahmet Camii (also known as The Blue Mosque). Admission: free.
The Blue Mosque is a functioning mosque, and as such, we had to take our shoes off upon entrance, and were not allowed to take photos. Above are some photos from the exterior.
This interior photo (courtesy of Wikipedia), gives a sense of the interior. Completely carpeted, with huge circular chandeliers suspended from the dome (to preserve the impressive vertical effect of the space), the Blue Mosque is a truly beautiful and peaceful space. The architecture is reminiscent of Hagia Sophia, including a nearly-identical floating dome.
And finally, we saw a little Turkish boy, adorned in his circumcision ceremony robes. This is a common rite of passage for all men in Turkey.
To the west of the Blue Mosque was the Hippodrome. (Admission: free.) Originally, it would have been a circus / arena, but now it's a long park that is home to three of the original large monuments that Constantine had imported from around his vast empire. Above are the Obelisk of Thutmose III (almost 20 metres high, and imported from Egypt in 357 BC!), the Serpent Column (which originally would have had 3 serpent heads), and the Walled Obelisk.
It truly felt like I was living in an virtual reality art history book. This was probably the highlight of the entire trip. So impressive.
We headed south, through beautiful Sultanahmet Park, towards Sultanahmet Camii (also known as The Blue Mosque). Admission: free.
The Blue Mosque is a functioning mosque, and as such, we had to take our shoes off upon entrance, and were not allowed to take photos. Above are some photos from the exterior.
This interior photo (courtesy of Wikipedia), gives a sense of the interior. Completely carpeted, with huge circular chandeliers suspended from the dome (to preserve the impressive vertical effect of the space), the Blue Mosque is a truly beautiful and peaceful space. The architecture is reminiscent of Hagia Sophia, including a nearly-identical floating dome.
And finally, we saw a little Turkish boy, adorned in his circumcision ceremony robes. This is a common rite of passage for all men in Turkey.
To the west of the Blue Mosque was the Hippodrome. (Admission: free.) Originally, it would have been a circus / arena, but now it's a long park that is home to three of the original large monuments that Constantine had imported from around his vast empire. Above are the Obelisk of Thutmose III (almost 20 metres high, and imported from Egypt in 357 BC!), the Serpent Column (which originally would have had 3 serpent heads), and the Walled Obelisk.
Our final stop for the day was the Basilica Cistern. Admission: $10 TL. My little point-and-shoot camera couldn't really capture this surreal, dimly-lit cavern, so I borrowed this shot from Wikipedia.
This underground lair was unlike anything I had ever seen. 336 illuminated marble columns supports a cathedral-sized structure. The cistern was originally built to supply water to Topkapi Palace and surrounding area - it held 80,000 cubic metres, supplied by aqueducts.
The most bizarre addition to this site were two large Medusa heads at the base of two of the columns. There are many speculations and myths as to their existence and placement, but the most common legend is that the marble bases are oriented sideways and rotated in order to avert the gaze of the evil mythological Gorgons. The Basilica Cistern was an amazing, diamond-in-the-rough spectacle - something you would never expect to exist in the belly of Istanbul's old city. Worth every penny.
And that was the day. We took the metro home, had a bite to eat, went for a walk, and tried roasted chestnuts for the first time - wonderful. What a day!
The most bizarre addition to this site were two large Medusa heads at the base of two of the columns. There are many speculations and myths as to their existence and placement, but the most common legend is that the marble bases are oriented sideways and rotated in order to avert the gaze of the evil mythological Gorgons. The Basilica Cistern was an amazing, diamond-in-the-rough spectacle - something you would never expect to exist in the belly of Istanbul's old city. Worth every penny.
And that was the day. We took the metro home, had a bite to eat, went for a walk, and tried roasted chestnuts for the first time - wonderful. What a day!
